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Stone Driveways
John, if the stone is to be delivered by a dump truck it is far easier to have the driver spread it for you. Almost every truck I have ever seen has a chain at each side of the tailgate, this is to control how far it opens when dumping. Any driver with even a little experience can set the chains and drive forward while tipping the box, spreading the material at a surprisingly accurate rate, and in a nice, neat, approx. 9' wide path, all that is left is to 'massage' it into the exact location. Best of luck.
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Stone Driveways
JParker, although Grinder didn't say so explicitly the worst thing for any travelled surface is water.
It can kill it in so many ways, frost can heave it, erosion can remove it, ice can make it impassable....
Do yourself a BIG favour, prepare the area properly and THOROUGHLY before you do anything else. Any soil or conditions that can hold moisture MUST be eliminated.
A nearby landowner at our hunt camp thought he would build an 'economy' driveway into his place, the neighbours and the local contractor tried to reason with him to no avail. They did nothing, not even remove stumps or boulders, merely laid 'B' granular (pit run) on top of what was there. His logic was to spend on material instead of machinery, thus building the drive up high enough to be above potential problems, or so he thought.
By the following summer what little bit of it that was left in place was barely manageable on an ATV.
He then had the contractor come back and dig a proper base for the driveway right beside the existing one, then he just bulldozed all the material off the top and into the hole, then added more on top again.
It probably only cost him an extra $10,000 to save a little money up front, maybe he's a politician, who knows?
Best of luck.
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Stone Driveways
Grinder, not every course is built on text-book classic farmland. I REALLY wish they were.
Generally golf courses are built on land that fits into one of only two categories, in the first category are the courses that are built on 'out-lying areas' which means the land was selected because it was just beyond the premium-priced stuff near to town, generally the land is not too bad to work with. The second category is the ones that are built on land that can be most diplomatically described as 'construction challenged'. It is usually the stuff that is good for nothing else.
We have done courses that required topsoil to be made or imported from other islands, we have done courses without grass just oiled sand for the fairways & astro-turf for the greens. We have also done courses that took weeks and weeks of blasting before we could even THINK of doing any earth work.
We done them where we had to have armed guards, of course that was because of another sort of "site condition"...
Best of luck.
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JParker, I don't recall if anyone mentioned it in this thread already or not (crs setting in) but if you want to speed the stripping of soil with a blade go over the subject area with a rototiller first, then scoop the loosened soil with the blade. If you are buying a box-blade get one with ripper shanks, they work well too.
It makes the process a LOT faster.
Best of luck.
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There is another sneaky way to achieve a side-tilt on a box-blade which is both inexpensive to add, and real fast to add, adjust or remove completely. It works on a conventional rear-blade also, but not as well.
Simply add a very sturdy trailer tongue jack to the crossbar at the front of the blade. The type with a roller wheel as a foot.
To achieve a slight lift simply crank the jack until it takes the desired amount of weight off that side of the blade. Some models affix by means of a cross drilled pipe flange, these work best since multiple mounts can be installed and the jack moved around to any of them as the need dictates.
Best of luck.
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